I took 3 vertical inches out of the top. In this picture  you can see the tape marks where the cuts will be made.
Remember to take 3 VERTICAL inches out of the windshield and door posts.
Some people will measure the 3 inches along the slope of the post, which will not give a true 3 inch drop.

Initial mock-up shows how much out of alignment the top is from front to back. A filler strip will be added.

All the pieces are temporarily set in place to see what the overall effect will be.

Starting to weld everything up.
The filler piece across the gap in the top has been added, and we're starting to work the area between the doors and the rear window.
The door tops have also been tacked together at this point.
The piece cut out of the vertical part of the door was used to fill the horizontal gap.

Vertical cuts were made to allow us to move the metal around so everything would line up.
We started welding at the rear window and worked our way out towards the doors.
Doing it this way meant we didn't have to split the top into 4 pieces.

The first coat of filler. The metalwork was done well enough that only a small amount of filler was needed.

Ted Lewis working on the inside of the roof. Ted was the bodyman at the rod shop I worked for at the time.
If you look closely you can see a short vertical split in the roof at the center peak of the windshield.
This allowed us to spread the windshield posts slightly to allow for the mis-alignment. It worked like a charm!

Ted Lewis and Dugie McLean installing the beading around the glued-in windshield glass.
The glass was v-butted and glued in for a combination of good looks and a weather tight seal.

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